Gold and Platinum
Its beautiful luster, rarity, and unique durability have made gold highly coveted for thousands of years. The precious metal holds emotional, cultural, and financial value. In many cultures, it was considered to have magical properties, but above all, gold has been a symbol of power and wealth. It was once reserved for rulers and the clergy, adorning armor, carriages, buildings, and possessions. For centuries, gold has served as a means of payment, and no other metal has been more sought after as a jewelry material than gold itself.
It is estimated that over 90 percent of all gold on Earth has been extracted since the so-called gold rush in the mid-19th century, and about 85 percent of this is still in circulation. Today, about a third of the gold available on the market is recycled.
Alloys
Gold is a very soft, malleable, and expensive material, and is therefore rarely used in its purest form in jewelry. A single gram can actually be beaten into a thin sheet of about one square meter! At its thinnest, the gold becomes partially transparent. Pure gold is designated as 24 karat, or 1000/1000 (in practice 999).
Furthermore, gold is usually mixed into the following alloys:
– 22 karat – 916/1000
– 18 karat – 750/1000
– 14 karat – 585/1000
– 9 karat – 375/1000
Some jewelry retailers claim that 14 kt. gold is better suited for jewelry than the finer 18 kt. alloy. It is incorrectly claimed that the jewelry is harder and therefore more resistant to wear. In modern alloys, the difference in hardness is minimal, and there are also a number of other factors that influence how well the metal will hold up over time.
At Juvelér Langaard, we primarily offer jewelry in 18 kt. gold. This alloy has a more beautiful color, holds up better because it corrodes (oxidizes) less, and is also more hypoallergenic.
Color Shades
In its purest form, gold has a warm yellow tone. 18k yellow gold has silver and
copper added to it. The most common alloys used in jewelry are otherwise white gold and rose gold.
Rose gold is an alloy that contains more copper and is slightly harder than white
gold. White gold contains a portion of palladium and silver and is usually plated
with rhodium to give it a white surface. Rhodium is a hard and white
precious metal that, like gold and platinum, does not corrode. We also use
black rhodium to create an exciting design aesthetic.
Wear and Tear
18 kt. gold will always retain its beautiful color and glow, and will not corrode. However, it is natural for jewelry to show signs of wear over time, and rings in particular will develop a slightly uneven surface. This is a part of the gold’s character that we call patina, and it does not make the piece any less beautiful. White gold, which is naturally slightly golden, may have its rhodium plating wear off with use. The jewelry can regain its shiny, white surface through polishing and rhodium plating.
At Juvelér Langaard, we do not melt down old gold, but instead purchase recycled gold and platinum to ensure the highest possible quality in what we produce. New, refined gold is a prerequisite for non-porous, lustrous jewelry that holds up well over time.
Platinum
Platinum is a soft and malleable white precious metal. Like gold, it will never corrode, it requires no post-processing, and it is hypoallergenic. Due to its tough consistency, it is more time-consuming to work with. Traditionally, it has been more expensive than gold, but as with all raw materials, prices are subject to supply and demand. Platinum is often alloyed with 5 percent other metals to make it harder, and is then stamped 950 Pt.
Unlike white gold, which loses its white surface when the rhodium wears off, platinum retains its color. Furthermore, none of the metal is lost when the jewelry wears over time; its toughness means that it simply shifts slightly. The jewelry will still get scratched, but it will remain white. We often use platinum for the prongs of engagement rings because it withstands a bit more than white gold.
Things to Consider when Choosing Metal
White gold and platinum are the most popular metals for engagement rings, and have the color that best complements a diamond with a high color grade. If you choose jewelry with diamonds that have a slightly lower color grade, i.e., a hint of yellow, we recommend yellow gold or rose gold.
For wedding rings, platinum can be a good choice, as the metal retains its color over time and does not require re-rhodium plating like white gold does. Yellow gold is also a great and traditional choice that requires minimal maintenance.
