Gold and Platinum
For thousands of years, gold has been valued for its warm lustre, rarity and remarkable durability. Few materials have played such a lasting role across jewellery, culture and commerce.
Throughout history, gold has been associated with wealth, power and status. It was once reserved for rulers and religious figures, used to adorn everything from ceremonial objects and carriages to buildings and personal possessions. For centuries, it also served as a form of currency. Yet it is in jewellery that gold has perhaps found its most enduring expression.
Much of the gold ever mined remains in circulation today. Unlike many other materials, gold can be recovered, refined and used again without losing its fundamental properties. Recycling therefore plays an important role in the modern gold market, with recycled gold accounting for a significant share of the global supply.
Gold Alloys
Pure gold is naturally soft and highly malleable, which is why it is rarely used in its pure form for jewellery. A single gram of gold can be beaten into a sheet measuring approximately one square metre, becoming so thin that it is partially transparent.
Pure gold is defined as 24 carat, corresponding to a fineness of 1000/1000 – or, in practice, typically 999.
For jewellery, gold is usually alloyed with other metals in different proportions:
22 carat – 916/1000
18 carat – 750/1000
14 carat – 585/1000
9 carat – 375/1000
It is sometimes suggested that 14-carat gold is better suited to jewellery than 18-carat gold because it is harder and therefore more resistant to wear. With modern alloys, however, the difference in hardness can be relatively small, and durability depends on several factors beyond carat alone, including the composition of the alloy, the design of the piece and how it is worn.
At Juvelér Langaard, most of our gold jewellery is made in 18-carat gold. Its higher gold content gives the metal a richer colour, while its resistance to corrosion helps preserve its appearance over time. The lower proportion of other metals can also make 18-carat gold a suitable choice for those who are sensitive to certain metals.
Gold Colours
In its pure form, gold has a naturally warm yellow colour. In 18-carat yellow gold, the gold is combined with metals such as silver and copper to achieve the desired colour and properties.
The other most common gold colours used in jewellery are white gold and rose gold. Rose gold contains a higher proportion of copper, which gives the metal its characteristic warm, pink tone and also makes it slightly harder than white gold.
White gold is alloyed with metals including palladium and silver and is commonly plated with rhodium to create a bright white finish. Rhodium is a hard, white precious metal that, like gold and platinum, is highly resistant to corrosion. Over time, the rhodium plating may gradually wear, particularly on jewellery worn frequently, and can be renewed when needed.
At Langaard, we also use black rhodium as a design element, creating darker surfaces and contrast within a piece of jewellery.
Wear and Care
18-carat gold retains its colour and is highly resistant to corrosion. With regular wear, however, the surface of a piece will naturally develop fine marks and subtle changes in texture. This is particularly noticeable on rings and forms part of the patina that develops over time – a natural reflection of how the jewellery has been worn.
White gold has a naturally warmer tone beneath its rhodium plating. With wear, particularly on rings, the plating will gradually become thinner and the underlying colour may begin to show. The bright white finish can be restored by refinishing, polishing and applying a new layer of rhodium.
At Juvelér Langaard, we do not melt down old gold for use in new jewellery. Instead, we work with refined recycled gold and platinum to ensure consistent quality in the pieces we create. Refining removes impurities from previously used precious metals, allowing the material to be used again while meeting the standards required for our jewellery.
Platinum
Platinum is a naturally white precious metal, valued for its durability and resistance to corrosion. Unlike white gold, it does not require rhodium plating to achieve or maintain its white colour. Platinum is also generally well suited to sensitive skin.
Although platinum is relatively soft, it is exceptionally dense and tough, which makes it more demanding to work with than gold. Its market price, like that of other precious metals, varies according to supply and demand.
Platinum used in fine jewellery is commonly alloyed with a small proportion of other metals to improve its working properties and durability. A piece marked 950 Pt contains 95% platinum.
One of platinum’s distinctive qualities is the way it wears over time. Rather than losing its white colour, the surface gradually develops fine marks and a natural patina. When scratched, much of the metal is displaced rather than removed, helping the piece retain its substance over years of wear.
At Juvelér Langaard, we often use platinum for the claws of engagement rings. Its strength, toughness and naturally white colour make it particularly well suited to securing diamonds and other precious stones.
Choosing the Right Metal
White gold and platinum are among the most popular choices for engagement rings. Their bright, neutral colour complements diamonds in the higher, more colourless grades particularly well. For diamonds with a slightly warmer tone, yellow or rose gold can be a beautiful choice, as the warmth of the metal creates a softer contrast with the stone.
For wedding rings, platinum can be an excellent choice. Its naturally white colour remains unchanged over time and, unlike white gold, it does not require rhodium plating to maintain its appearance. Yellow gold is another classic choice, valued for its warm colour and relatively low maintenance.
