Gold and Platinum

For thousands of years, gold has been valued for its warm lustre, rarity and remarkable durability. Few materials have played such an enduring role in jewellery, culture and commerce.

Throughout history, gold has been associated with wealth, power and status. Once reserved for rulers and religious figures, it was used to adorn everything from ceremonial objects and carriages to buildings and personal possessions. For centuries, it also served as a form of currency. Yet it is in jewellery that gold has perhaps found its most enduring expression.

Much of the gold ever mined remains in circulation today. Unlike many other materials, gold can be recovered, refined and reused without losing its fundamental properties. Recycling therefore plays an important role in the modern gold market, with recycled gold accounting for a significant proportion of the global supply.

Gold Alloys

Pure gold is naturally soft and highly malleable, which is why it is rarely used in its pure form for jewellery. A single gram of gold can be beaten into a sheet measuring approximately one square metre, becoming so thin that it is partially transparent.

Pure gold is defined as 24 carat, corresponding to a fineness of 1000/1000, although in practice it is typically refined to 999/1000.

For jewellery, gold is usually alloyed with other metals in varying proportions:

  • 22 carat – 916/1000
  • 18 carat – 750/1000
  • 14 carat – 585/1000
  • 9 carat – 375/1000

It is sometimes suggested that 14-carat gold is better suited to jewellery than 18-carat gold because it is harder and therefore more resistant to wear. With modern alloys, however, the difference in hardness can be relatively small. Durability depends on several factors beyond carat weight alone, including the composition of the alloy, the design of the piece and how it is worn.

At Juvelér Langaard, most of our gold jewellery is made in 18-carat gold. Its higher gold content gives the metal a richer colour, while its resistance to corrosion helps preserve its appearance over time. The lower proportion of other metals can also make 18-carat gold a suitable choice for those who are sensitive to certain metals.

Gold Colours

In its pure form, gold has a naturally warm yellow colour. In 18-carat yellow gold, it is combined with metals such as silver and copper to achieve the desired colour and properties.

The other most common gold colours used in jewellery are white gold and rose gold. Rose gold contains a higher proportion of copper, giving it its characteristic warm, pink tone. The copper content can also influence the hardness of the alloy, although this depends on its overall composition.

White gold is alloyed with metals such as palladium and silver and is often plated with rhodium to achieve a bright white finish. Rhodium is a hard, white precious metal that is highly resistant to corrosion. Over time, the plating may gradually wear away, particularly on jewellery worn frequently, but it can be renewed to restore the original finish.

At Langaard, we also use black rhodium as a design element, creating darker surfaces and striking contrasts within a piece of jewellery.

Wear and Care

18-carat gold retains its natural colour and is highly resistant to corrosion. With regular wear, however, the surface will gradually develop fine scratches and subtle changes in texture. This is particularly noticeable on rings and contributes to the patina that develops over time – a natural reflection of how the jewellery has been worn.

White gold has a naturally warmer tone beneath its rhodium plating. Over time, particularly on rings, the plating may gradually wear away, allowing the underlying colour to become visible. The bright white finish can be restored through refinishing, polishing and the application of a new layer of rhodium.

At Juvelér Langaard, we do not melt down old gold directly for use in new jewellery. Instead, we work with refined recycled gold and platinum to ensure consistent quality in the pieces we create. The refining process removes impurities from previously used precious metals, allowing them to be reused while meeting the quality standards we require for our jewellery.

Platinum

Platinum is a naturally white precious metal, valued for its durability and resistance to corrosion. Unlike white gold, it does not require rhodium plating to achieve or maintain its natural colour. Platinum is also generally well suited to those with sensitive skin.

Although platinum is relatively soft, it is exceptionally dense and tough, making it more demanding to work with than gold. Its market price, like that of other precious metals, fluctuates according to supply and demand.

Platinum used in fine jewellery is commonly alloyed with small amounts of other metals to improve its working properties and durability. A piece marked 950 Pt contains 95% platinum.

One of platinum's distinctive qualities is the way it wears over time. Rather than losing its natural white colour, the surface gradually develops fine scratches and a subtle patina. When scratched, much of the metal is displaced rather than removed, helping the piece retain its substance over years of wear.

At Juvelér Langaard, we often use platinum for the claws that hold diamonds in engagement rings. Its toughness, durability and naturally white colour make it particularly well suited to securing diamonds and other precious gemstones.

Choosing the Right Metal

White gold and platinum are among the most popular choices for engagement rings. Their bright, neutral colour complements diamonds in the higher, more colourless grades particularly well. For diamonds with slightly warmer tones, yellow or rose gold can be a beautiful choice, as the warmth of the metal creates a softer contrast with the stone.

For wedding rings, platinum can be an excellent choice. Its naturally white colour does not fade over time and, unlike rhodium-plated white gold, it does not require replating to maintain its colour. Yellow gold is another classic choice, valued for its warm colour and relatively low maintenance requirements.